Week 10: The Coast!

 Like I indicated in my last blog, the train ride to Mombasa was brutal. It was hot and crowded. We had 3 seats together but we faced 3 seats that had 3 men sitting at them. The lights never turned off the whole trip it wasn't easy to sleep.

It was especially hard because Malachi kept wanting to lean against me. He sleeps hot. I was so ready to get off the train when we arrived in Mombasa.

My professor had counselled me to prearrange a ride. She didn't like the idea of us being in Mombasa at 4 in the morning with no place to go, so I booked a stay at a resort right on the beach even though we wouldn't be getting there until after 4 am and they hooked me up with a driver. I was glad I had made all those arrangements because it was absolute chaos when we got off. There were so many drivers aggressively seeking  a fare. The problem was, that my driver had sent me a message saying he would send the details in a few back when we had first left Nairobi, but then I didn't receive any further details. It didn't take long for me to realize that my phone plan had ended at midnight which was probably why I didn't receive any info and now I couldn't contact him. I looked for a driver holding a sign with my name, but no luck. One of the drivers that approached me said she knew our driver and called him. So he found us--that was pretty lucky. I felt much safer once we were on our way.

It was an hour's drive from the train station to Milele beach resort, where we were staying. I didn't realize it until Lizzie pointed it out, but Milele is the name of the place that Mufasa learns about from his mother--a sort of mythical abundant land that he is tries to find in the movie Mufasa. When we arrived around 5:30, the guy at reception told me I was supposed to check in yesterday. I explained that we just needed a place to sleep for a few hours until we could continue on to our final destination, but later when I checked out, they asked me why I wasn't staying for a full night.

Milele the beach resort did not live up to the connotations of its name. It was old and grungy, but the beds were comfortable and it had AC and it was right on the beach, so it served its purpose. There were monkeys right near our room--it was a little scary to walk by so close to them. Malachi enjoyed the pool.

We ventured out on the beach briefly. We were approached rather quickly by "beach boys" but we used the excuse that we were leaving in a few minutes to keep them at bay. Beach boys are guys that work the beach trying to sell you coconut, boat trips, Maasai jewelry, aloe, clothes, and camel rides.

We used the same driver to take us to Diani beach. I booked an Airbnb that had mixed reviews but I took it because it was right on the beach. The building was under renovations. It looked like it had been closed down for awhile--maybe since Covid. The kids reported that the pool was gross, but I've never understood why anyone uses a pool when they are at a beautiful beach. This was the view from our balcony.

The kids couldn't wait to get down to the beach. They were all sunscreened up and changed before the security guard was done telling me about all the available tours--he was similar to the beach boys.

Diani beach had been voted the most beautiful beach in Africa 5 years in a row. It was spectacular.

The palm trees actually form a straight line but the panorama warps it. Once we crossed through the palm trees, we were on public beach. And that's when we would get swarmed by beach boys. 

It was not easy to deal with the beach boys. Most of them were pushy and relentless. I didn't want to just ignore them because that felt rude. Also, I understand that they are desperate. And there is rivalry amongst them to secure the new tourists. Everybody wanted to know our names, but I was told not to give them our names. One time I just openly said I didn't want to tell them my name so to just call me Njeri. That is a Kenyan name specific to one of the more powerful tribes and once when I was walking through Mathare, people started calling me that. So some of them started calling me Njeri. The kids and I made up a game where we tried going through the alphabet for names, but we often froze and used the same one multiple times. We were Draper, Frankie, Ellie, Elliott, Camilla and so on, but it got harder when they would call out to us with those other names to remember to respond. The kids started getting quite impatient with them talking to me all the time when they wanted me to play with them, but we still had a lot of fun. 

On our second day we decided to walk down to the reef when the tide was way out. The beach boys would not leave us alone. Finally one guy told all the others to leave us--because he was going to take us. I did not like dealing with him because he way was to provide something and then ask an exorbitant price for it afterwards. It kind of ruined our time on the reef because he wouldn't leave us alone. He did show us a stone fish--which is super poisonous and very camouflaged. For his unwanted guidance, (which he called a sea safari) he wanted me to pay 7000 ksh. We talked him down from that, but the kids were very resentful. He also kept everyone else away from us as we walked back along the beach. 

The next day we went on snokeling/dolphin tour. One of the best things about the tour was we didn't have to worry about beach boys for the whole day. We got picked up at 7:30 and were dropped off just after 6. It starts getting dark at around 6, so the beach was mostly deserted by then. The tour was so fun. We were taken out on a dhow (a boat with sails that was traditionally used for trading).

The water was pretty choppy so I was worried I would get seasick like I did in Okinawa, but luckily I didn't. The boat was much smaller than the Okinawa tour and more laissez faire too. They took us out to see dolphins which we did see briefly and they were only a couple meters from our boat at one point. Then we went to a marine park for snorkeling. The area was a large sand bar with a reef around it. 

Before we got in the water, another girl got in and said it was as cold as heck...it was not, but it was not as warm as Okinawa and there was a strong breeze, so when we got out we were cold. In Okinawa we had to wear a wetsuit or a life jacket. It was hard to dive down and I assumed that the wetsuits were buoyant somehow, but after snorkeling in the Indian Ocean without a wetsuit, and experiencing the same buoyancy, I think it was the salt water. We didn't have to do anything to float--we just did. We saw lots of cool tropical fish. It was very fun. Although we applied sunscreen before going out, both Lizzie and I got burnt from our snorkeling. After snorkeling, we were taken to Wasini Island. Wasini Island is an island without motorized vehicles or even bicycles. We had a traditional Swahili lunch there. I had fish while the kids had broiled chicken. My fish was Tilapia and just given to me in whole fish style--similar to Japan. It was yummy. There were chicken and cats walking around at our feet while we ate.

After lunch we were taken back, but on the way back the tour operators performed for us. This was actually one of my favourite parts of the whole tour. They used water jugs for their drums. 

When we got back, we went straight to the beach to play in the waves and find a beach boy selling aloe leaves. There was hardly anyone on the beach at that point, but we found one. The previous day, we all got burned in small patches where we missed sunscreen, but we didn't get aloe. Those burns turned out way worse than the ones from the day where we applied aloe almost right away. Unlike every other  ocean beach I have been to, the sun doesn't set over the water there since we were on the east. So we didn't get great sunset pictures, but we did get these. 

I was worried about the train ride back because it during the day--I was worried that it would be unbearably hot. But the train ride back was much better. It wasn't as full, so we had room to spread out and the AC was stronger. Another plus was we could see outside. The train goes through 3 national parks. We saw some elephants, giraffes and zebra on our ride home.

We were all much happier.

We had one day left after we got back from the coast. We had a lunch with my professor, a UFV alum that is from Nairobi, and my classmate and her husband. It was a distance out from where we were, but as typical of the places my professor recommends, it had a cool vibe, with lots of garden-ish outdoor vibes. 

We have loved all the places she recommended. 

Then yesterday we flew home. I have learned so much from this internship. I wish I could have stayed longer. I feel like I didn't get everything done that I wanted to. But it was an amazing experience that I'm so thankful I got to have. Who knew when I was deciding about school last year that I would end up here.  I really hope to be able to go back one day.